FranceSaturday, 18th October, 2008 10:30 pm
I’m a little behind with the entries because I have been trying to cram 4 days of sightseeing into a day and a half. Here are the highlights of my time in Provence…
Stayed in Arles. This time of year, it’s pretty empty, as Summer is the real tourist season. The lighting at night is flourescent and, on my hotel’s street, pink. That and the lack of people makes it a bit creepy at night. There is an excellent coliseum here (see photo), built by the Romans around fortysomething AD. They still use it for “bull games” (humane bull fighting). There’s also an awesome medieval church (St. Trophime) and a lot of stuff related to Van Gogh, who lived here for many years, but none of his actual paintings.
Today I day-tripped to the Pont du Gard which is a big section of a Roman aquaduct, built from 38 - 52 AD (see photo). I had an interesting adventure on the way back…
The Pont du Gard is not a real easy place to get to. I had to take two trains and two buses to get there. Upon trying to return, the bus stop was at a roundabout some 300 yards from the site’s entrance. In waiting for the bus, I was joined by an 18-ish year-old girl from Montreal, whom I had seen on the bus on the way there and around the park. We chatted briefly in a combination of broken French and broken English. Eventually (15 minutes late), the bus stopped on the opposite side of the roundabout. We waved at him and hurried to cross to the other side but he just shrugged his shoulders and drove off. Dick.
Since the next bus on the schedule was not for another 3 hours, we resolved to go back to the Pont du Gard parking lot and try to bum a ride. After a few minutes, a group of 3, clearly American, girls in their early 30’s, came walking out and I successfully negotiated passage to Avignon for my young quebecoise cohort and myself. Avignon’s not Nimes, but they have a train station, so good enough. The ladies in question, Candice, Liz, and the other one (can’t remember her name), were from Chicago, and were very kind to help us out. Thank you, ladies!
After that, got a train back to Nimes, where I was determined to see more sites. My new friend was headed that way as well, so she joined me for my quick and dirty tour of the town. I won’t go into the siteseeing details here but it was my overall impression that Nimes was a more pleasant town to see and hang out in than Arles. If I were to come back, I would want to stay there.
Around 6:00-ish, my new friend (Catherine) and I parted ways as I headed back to Arles. It was interesting and enjoyable partnership, brought on by shared hardship and a desire for two lone travellers to have a companion, if only for a few hours.
Perhaps it could be said that one has not truly travelled until they have been lost in a foreign country. It takes some resolve and resourcefulness to find your way out of such a pickle. In this case, I took advantage of a nearby hub of tourist activity, which is probably a sound general strategy. But I feel it was something of a defining moment. Hopefully future defining moments will be less stressful. But the stress is probably what makes them defining. C’est la vie.


Update: here are my photos from this part of the trip:
Arles
Pont du Gard
Nimes